Two Sides to Every Mountain

The backside of the mountain hosts an incredible snapshot in time. Following Turkey's independence war there was natural tension between the Turks and the Greeks who had resided here for generations. In a bold policy in 1923 the countries organised a population exchange such that 1.5 million Greeks immediately had to give up their homes and livelihoods to move to Greece while half a million Turks were 'returned.' With the number imbalance the Turks were welcomed home by their pick of house and in many cases business. I'll report how the Greeks fared when I get there in a few weeks time.

With such plentiful options the less hospitable villages were left by the wayside which brings us back to the backside of the mountain. Here lies the ruins of a village named Kayakov after 90 years of neglect and it is completely picturesque. Ballparked at 400 structures from houses to churches, schools to stores, the stone walls stand as testaments to the pre independence Greeks, while the roofs have all disintegrated. This picture hardly begin to do justice to the narrow streets grown over with wildflower and the water tower sprouting fully grown trees. Amazing!

Following an hour of intense hiking, first straight up and out the back of this village and then down along the boulder strewn cutbacks, another treasure is discovered. The blue lagoon is nestled among the hills and trees with water coloured true to its name. At sunset the waters are still tepid and a welcome refresher having worked up a lather up and over the mountain. It is true that Turkey has a gluttony of jewels.

Accompanied

Since Larissa has been here we've been stuck in large, polluted, smelly cities. It is unfortunate because this masks the wonderful parts of India and they are more difficult for her to see through the smog. I hope that during the week she will at least catch a glimpse of what I've been able to experience over the past four weeks.

Delhi gave us a look at the history of the country by a morning at the national museum, as well as a trip to the house where Gandhi spent his final 144 days until he was assassinated on those very grounds. It now serves as a memorial for him, including his final golden footprints and a shrine where he died.
Old Delhi was a hubbub that almost got to Larissa on the second day but luckily we made it to the 25,000 person capacity mosque and were able to take it in, including a somewhat hazy but otherwise enjoyable view from atop the 40m tall tower.

Train from Delhi to Agra was her first legitimate train experience - in any country - and unfortunately was a trying one as it was delayed for an hour and the food I hopped off to grab at a station was deep fried, cold and thoroughly disappointing. In Agra we took a bell-ringer tour trying to see the 'Baby Taj' and then the real Taj before sunset. Both were accomplished.. as we watched the sun set from across the Yamuna River (second holiest in India) while viewing the Taj. It was splendid but still somewhat abstract or removed, picture-like, since we have yet to touch it. Tomorrow!



With the Taj closed on Friday's we boarded a city bus (jump-started via pushing!) along with a hundred other people to rumble and rock and smoke all the way to Fatehpur Sikri - the short lived capital of India in the 16th Century for only 14 years. It was nice to see the old palaces (3, one for each of the emperor's wives) and the gardens and the grounds.

It has been great to have family here, quells the homesick feelings that would rise from time to time and gives me someone to share India with. Looking forward to the rest of this country and then onto Thailand and beyond.