State of Christchurch

The news of the earthquakes in Christchurch had obviously reached me but a whole world away the extent did not resonate until I saw it in person. Especially weighing on my impression is that the city is shortly coming up on the one year anniversary of the deadly quake that rocked the city proper. Despite this time the central business district still lays largely in ruin, cordoned off by high temporary fences with prominent warning signs, known informally as the Red Zone. With the extent of the damage seen and unseen, tall buildings toppled and cracked, streets bulging and munted, sewage systems destroyed, is entirely understandable that the clean up would be so drawn out. Not to mention attempting to do this during  the subsequent quakes and aftershocks that continued for months and are only now subsiding into the Pacific Ocean. 

Reconstruction cannot even begin until the extent of the damage was ascertained and this heartbreakingly led to many, many homes being labelled uninhabitable as described in the large red placards placed on their entranceways. These number almost as many as the "Closed Down" signs that adorn businesses all around. Twelve months later it is still far from business as usual, as New Zealand's second largest city can in places feel like a ghost town. Many students are too trepidatious to enroll in the city's university and tourists are wary to visit a city in ruin. Some Cantaburians left town preferring to wait until the city's restoration, while still others have moved away for good. It is a place in tumultuous times. 

Amongst all of this however, there are signs of life. Cranes permeate the Red Zone and reconstruction signs are seen in the front of residences from the city to the suburbs. "We've Moved" signs are posted in windows beside the former "Closed" signs, as new entertainment, eating and service districts are emerging in nearby streets. An area near the CBD has returned to commercial use; shipping containers converted into shops, restaurants, banks and even temporary bars line this avenue and are flocked to by locals and tourists alike on a sunny, summer Saturday. Renewal projects are underway to bring some life back to the rubble as well. One of these is called Greening the Rubble which does just that by planting gardens in rubble-strewn lots. Another entitled Gap Filler attempts to revitalize lifeless, earthquake-affected voids by staging arts ranging from paintings to movie exhibitions and more. I stumbled upon one of these on my first night in town and here is an excerpt from my journal describing the experience. 

Only a smattering of people walked past primarily closed businesses until I saw a congregation in a rubble-strewn lot. Upon closer inspection I could see a projection on a wall with many seated viewers as I walked up behind a bank of stationary bike riders. I was intrigued and watched the very dated NZ PSA that used cycling chimps to demonstrate bicycle safety. Next up was a black and white, subtitled Italian film entitled The Bicycle Thief. I watched the opening, intending on leaving but with no where to go I thought 'why not stay?' Watching the film but with equal interest checking how the cyclists worked I gathered that the cycles were connected to generators, that fed a battery which was powering the laptop and projector! Genius. Figuring it'd be a shame if I didn't, I did my part and took a stint on a bike to help out. Following the flick, (yes I stayed 'til the unresolved ending) I asked a lady about the event's backstory. She informed me about the Gap Filler project that was attempting to make the most of a bad situation. 

With all of these hardships endured it is a testament to the inhabitants that they have showed resolve in the face of disaster. People on the street are willing to engage in discussion of the quakes and the aftermath. Even the local art reflects the experience - and though it shows reverence to the dead, injured, and displaced, it is an obvious inspiration in many fields.
Visual Arts:
 "7.1 + 6.3 + 6.3 = 19.7 CHCH Math", referring to the Richter scale reads one poster
Books:
"You know you're from Christchurch when..." your mother remarks on the colours of the new Portaloos on the side of the street... you laugh as tourists dive for the doorways during a 5.1. 
Theatre:
An all-encompassing theatrical production of The History of Christchurch, Abridged, that features two serious first-hand accounts of the major quake (and a tongue-in-cheek third account that is revealed to be about the Great Christchurch Snowfall) and concludes with a musical number singing to the tune of Jefferson Airplane's We Built This City - "Christchurch, this city, it rocks and rolls."

Christchurch was obviously once a glorious city and though seriously damaged by devastating earthquakes it seems to be determined to regain its glory. There is opportunity here for renewal and reemergence.  Undoubtedly it will be different than it was formerly but considering the spirit that I've seen in my brief visit here there is a definite underlying sense of optimism that it will once again attain greatness. 

Photos to come