Tweet: See No Evil

Tagged in Sarajevo

Guardians: Eric and Per, Bosnia/Croatia/Norway

Rafting on the Una River in northwestern Bosnia I met these two fun-loving Norwegians. Within minutes they had invited me to join their party. You see this weekend getaway was a surprise for Per's birthday. He was instructed to drive to Eric's house with his car gassed up, waterproof gear but no need for a passport. Upon arrival he was told to park in the garage and get in Eric's car - curve ball. They drove towards a nearby party city when at the last minute Eric, who drives anything fast, cut across four highway lanes into the airport producing astonished Per's passport he'd procured through his girlfriend. They flew to Croatia where they'd be partying but first the next morning they were paddling down a river with me. I'd been wondering how I was going to cross the minor border to reach my bear sanctuary destination the next day so when they offered a ride in their rental I jumped out of the raft at the chance. The two, who sell and service top-end sports cars in Oslo (at thrice American prices due to taxes), were superbly gracious and overwhelmingly generous. At the end of the few hour drive we stocked up on party supplies which we brought back to their pimping rented apartment. When the rain of the day exhausted itself Eric made it rain champagne with a pop! into the rose garden and the party began. Though I'd planned to go find a place to stay there was no opportunity, and frankly no reason, to leave as they introduced me to the Tomorrowland After-Video and American boat races while I played some Canadian music in a cross cultural exchange. (Early Nickelback was a surprise hit.) Carling beer, yes I believe the same terrible Canadian export, and "jet fuel" aka vodka replaced dinner and the after burners kicked in when the bars of Zadar closed up and gave way to night clubs at 2am. Dehydrated on a leather couch is where I found myself this rainy morning.

PS Beautiful people who wish to join me in Belgium for Tomorrowland 2015 can comment below

Guardian: Sulejman, Sarajevo

A thoroughly engaging, well-read and opinionated man who said 'hello' on the train to Sarajevo when he saw my flag on my pack. Having been raised in Bosnia and survived the war in the 1990's he was an especially interesting and, to my benefit, willing guide.

Although we had a train ride and entire evening of intellectual conversation regarding a broad range of important topics below is just a small selection of poignant thoughts paraphrased from the dialogue concerned with the war.

"I grew up with MTV!; we never believed it would come to arms.. During the first few days we'd be sitting in a cafe with shells flying overhead but it was too surreal. We hadn't come to terms with what was actually happening."

"It didn't make any sense. Families were fighting on both sides. My family lived in a catholic part of town but we weren't catholic so we were forced out. My mother had to move to another village. After a year of conscripted service I fled in the tank of a tanker truck while my Croatian friends smuggled us over the border. Worst off, my father was sent to a concentration camp. One day in there is too long - he was there for four months."

"Being on the front line didn't matter - we didn't have any weapons anyhow. We were in our trenches and they were in theirs."

"From Croatia I was able to go to Italy. Fill out the forms and they'd let anybody in but they wouldn't provide for you, not like Canada does. I saw Africans in the streets unable to get a job and I thought 'I can't end up like that' but without the language I couldn't work. In the end, myself and a friend went over the mountains and snuck into Switzerland where we at least had a chance."

"Humans are tribal. If it's not religion it's colour, or ethnicity, or language. We'll find something to separate us and that always leads to violence."