Monday, February 24, 2014

Reflections on the Games

The Sochi, Russia XXII Olympic Winter Games have now concluded. As far as I can tell they were a success overall and here I would like to comment on the different aspects of the Games, from first hand experience.

Security
This was the number one concern heading into these Olympics but one of the least concerning in reality. Yes, it was definitely tight at all entry points, air, train, bus, but it managed this without being obtrusive. Although it did seem that I was being searched, scanned and patted down on a regular basis never did I wait more than ten minutes for this service, usually only two from start to finish. Once inside a secure area such as the Olympic park or train station there were no further checks and no further worries. Everyone I spoke with agreed that they felt secure and that security measures were more than adequate. From the train headed up the mountain one would regularly see security camps along the river's edge and were comforted that there were likely plenty more that were unseen.

Transportation
A breeze really. Clean, reliable, simple, if not overly quick. Buses and trains ran so regularly that at first I thought I was just getting supremely lucky arriving at a stop just in time. Travel times from Adler were about half an hour direct to the park, 1.5-2 hours to the Mountain Cluster and 45 minute to the city of Sochi itself - all of it simple and straightforward. With only a three hour window each day 2-5am where services were lessened it was never a limiting factor. Could turn down the heat on a packed bus though.

Accommodations
This may have been the single biggest actual sticking point. Months prior confusion and fear reigned on the internet as there wasn't a room to be had since all were purportedly tied up by the IOC as their fallback plan. Furthering the trouble was that many of the hotels were still under construction making advanced booking dicey. English searches were quite limiting as well it seems.
This played out in a number of ways. People like me booked well ahead to assure themselves a spot and sometimes, also like me, were stuck in drab, still under construction, uncomfortable places for exorbitant prices - non refundable. Others were forced to shelter on one of many cruise ships in either Sochi or Adler port which was in some ways sheltering, inconvenient and not at all cheap - especially to eat or drink. While many others arrived expecting one thing only to find it unavailable and having to be displaced, sometimes partway through their stay. Although only one aspect of the experience it was a major drag.

Venues
All brand new, all beautiful inside and out. The Bolshoy hockey arena which was lit on the outside with the score and flags of the teams playing inside was particularly impressive. When negotiating for tickets the seat hardly mattered as there really weren't bad seats in the house, unless you were stuck behind the glass in a club zone seat while watching your team lose to Canada in men's hockey.

Layout and Amenities
The Olympic park itself was huge. A very neat idea to have everything together but the length from the security entrance to the arenas, most of a kilometre, was too far to easily move around. Food was reasonably priced inside the park too, although none of it was very good. A tallboy of beer for example cost only 150 rub or <$5 CAD but was inexplicably unavailable in the venues themselves. Saving grace was that, as mentioned, once in the park one could move unhindered, including bringing unopened beer bought in the main park into the matches - because curling is just shuffleboard without beer.
There could definitely have been more activities for between events as it felt that if you weren't at the park you were disconnected from the Olympics and if you were at the park but not at the event you wanted you could still feel that way. I couldn't even watch a number of events I wished to on TV because they were not being broadcast anywhere or would be broadcast for a short period before cutting away for something else, a cultural show for example. Without anything to watch they expected you to line up for hours to get into a corporate house, get a cola, test drive a car, play with a tablet; not interested.

Cultural Houses
To be honest besides maybe some of those spinning Russian dancers the Russian cultural exhibits were a snore. The rest of the countries infuriatingly restricted entry to either passport holders, or worse yet, media and friends. Germany let you in the door then asked if you were invited. USA would let you shop but only if you had an American passport. Canada allowed you to sit on the muskoka chairs out front and use WiFi but even as a Canadian I couldn't approach the door or even buy a mitten. Friends and family applauded this from the inside with their unlimited free food, drink and beer but as a taxpayer it really burned not to have a gathering place.
Swiss house did open their doors quickly becoming the default gathering point in Olympic park for post game celebrations while Austria served a similar function in the mountain.

Atmosphere
The biggest sticking point. Perhaps it was coming from Vancouver, called the biggest party that will never be rivaled by a three times Olympic vet, but bringing those expectations threw me off. That said many others including those who hadn't been in Vancouver also questioned it. There really were no gathering points with an atmosphere. The Olympic sites were all but deserted and the few bars that existed were nearly as empty or didn't bother having a working big screen to cater to the games crowd. We had no 'regular' and I found myself scrambling for a way into Olympic park (entry restricted by sold out day passes) just to be a part of something on my days off.

Case and point, for the men's hockey finals I opted not to blow a week's travel budget on attending a 2 hour hockey game. "I'll find a crew at a bar like in Vancouver" I figured, after everyone I'd met through the week had departed already or were going to the game. After fruitlessly pounding the Adler pavement for two hours game day morning I had met only one Canadian and he was going to the game. Exasperated I took the train to Sochi itself where in another 1.5 hours I saw but 3 more, also attending. I was the only Canadian in Sochi not going to be in Canada house or at the game! Resigned I entered a Sochi live site 20 minutes to puck drop and was relieved to find three Canadians - a family of three including a nine year old, but still Canadians! I was very happy that this worked out really nicely. We watched the small Russian crowd whoop once when they stole a bobsled gold medal and then settled in to watch the game. Multi time Olympic spectators we had plenty to discuss and carried on through the win, moving to a bar for more discussion of our experiences through the closing ceremonies and into the night. The Canadians filtered back to the city and a couple (literally two) joined us for post celebrations, then I found another friend at another bar on a hunch. The bottom line is despite being in Sochi you probably saw more Canadians in the second intermission than I did all day. I'm not complaining - I still had a blast, it just wasn't what I was envisioning when I started the day.

Closing Thoughts
The Olympics are definitely an experience, a unique experience that will be unique each time. I've met some great people here who will be receiving messages from me in 3.5 years time. I look forward to Korea 2018, apparently another new build in a city of 44,000 a couple hours from Seoul. Although that time I hope to bring my own Canadian contingency so regardless of where we are there can always be a great Canadian party.

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