The backside of the mountain hosts an incredible snapshot in time. Following Turkey's independence war there was natural tension between the Turks and the Greeks who had resided here for generations. In a bold policy in 1923 the countries organised a population exchange such that 1.5 million Greeks immediately had to give up their homes and livelihoods to move to Greece while half a million Turks were 'returned.' With the number imbalance the Turks were welcomed home by their pick of house and in many cases business. I'll report how the Greeks fared when I get there in a few weeks time.
With such plentiful options the less hospitable villages were left by the wayside which brings us back to the backside of the mountain. Here lies the ruins of a village named Kayakov after 90 years of neglect and it is completely picturesque. Ballparked at 400 structures from houses to churches, schools to stores, the stone walls stand as testaments to the pre independence Greeks, while the roofs have all disintegrated. This picture hardly begin to do justice to the narrow streets grown over with wildflower and the water tower sprouting fully grown trees. Amazing!
Following an hour of intense hiking, first straight up and out the back of this village and then down along the boulder strewn cutbacks, another treasure is discovered. The blue lagoon is nestled among the hills and trees with water coloured true to its name. At sunset the waters are still tepid and a welcome refresher having worked up a lather up and over the mountain. It is true that Turkey has a gluttony of jewels.
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